Photo courtesy of Whirlpool Corp.
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The increasing popularity of industrial cooking equipment has been a source of inspiration to manufacturers of residential cooking appliances. Today, these new appliances may incorporate bigger, hotter burners; more spacious ovens; built-in grills/griddles; and broilers with variable temperatures.
The first question you will want to answer before making a purchase is whether you prefer a range, which has both a cooktop and an oven, or separate wall oven and cooktop units.
Ranges
A range is the traditional convenience center of the kitchen, putting all the basic cooking functions in one location. Ranges may be gas, electric, or a combination of the two.
A freestanding range is the most common choice and is usually the most economical as well. A standard model is 30 inches wide with a cooktop above and an oven below; some models include a microwave/range hood at eye level. Typically, the backsplash includes a clock, timer, and/or controls.
A slide-in range fits snugly between cabinets. Flanges on either side cover the gap between the range and the countertop to allow for easy cleaning. The range has no backsplash, so the wall behind should be covered with a material resistant to heat and moisture.
A drop-in range fits into a cutout in a cabinet. Because it rests on top of the cabinet base, it lacks a slide-out storage drawer on the bottom. The top edge overlaps the counter surface, thus eliminating the troublesome space between the counter and the range.
Those who do a lot of cooking may be attracted to a commercial range, but there are several drawbacks: excessive weight, dangerous heat, and time-consuming cleaning requirements. Manufacturers have developed “commercial/residential” models better suited for home use. These offer the power, size, and distinctive stainless-steel finish of the commercial range without the drawbacks. However, they are relatively expensive.
A refurbished heirloom range from grandmother’s day is charming but lacks such modern features as self-cleaning. Some new ranges mimic the old-style range, but they, too, are expensive. Options found on ranges include: Computerized baking and roasting switches; Different numbers of heating elements/burners; Varying size burners; Digital or analog clocks and timers; Griddles, woks, and grills.
Photo courtesy of Maytag
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Wall ovens
A built-in oven can be mounted under the counter with a cooktop above but is more commonly placed higher on a wall. The great advantage of a wall oven is easy access: You don’t have to crouch to get at baking goods. The standard width is 30 inches, but narrower models are available.
A double oven offers the possibility of roasting in one and baking in the other. Some people have both a range and a wall oven: Most everyday baking and broiling is done in the wall oven, and the range’s oven is available for multicourse meals and large parties.
Cooktops
A cooktop is basically the top of a range without the oven. It drops into a cutout in the counter, like a self-rimming sink, and slim models invade little of the cabinet space below. Most cooktops come in 30- or 36-inch widths; they’re all at least 2 to 3 inches shallower than the standard 24-inch cabinet depth. You can also buy glass and ceramic cooktops to build-in flush with a counter (the oven mounts in cabinets elsewhere in the kitchen) or as ranges that include ventilation hoods and microwaves.
Before installation, drop-in cooktops run from about 2-1/2 to 8 inches high; figure about 16-1/2 inches for downventing models. Both gas and electric cooktops include models that are “convertible”—they have modules that let you replace burners with grills, griddles, and other specialized accessories.
Convection ovens
These are available in both gas and electric, freestanding or as part of a range. A convection oven has a high-speed fan that circulates the air, maintaining a steadier temperature. The result: Food cooks faster and browns evenly, meats are juicier, and baked goods have a more delicate texture. A “true” convection oven, with its burner in the rear of the oven chamber rather than at the bottom, works even better than a standard model.
Heating options
It was once true that gas was the better choice for cooktops and electric the better choice for ovens. However, recent advances make both heat sources attractive options for either type of cooking. In most areas of the country, gas is more economical than electric power.
 Gas cooktop photo courtesy of Whirlpool Corp.
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Burners and grates
Choose burners to suit your pots and pans. Most people prefer one small burner, two that are medium-sized, and one large burner for stock pots and the like. If you want more than four standard burners, the range or cooktop must be wider than 30 inches.
Some electric grates are designed so you can easily slide a pot from one to another. Some grill configurations include a central grate to rest pots for cooling.
Alternatives to the common burner include a central grill that allows you to barbecue indoors and a commercial-style griddle that provides a truly spacious cooking surface.
Burner options
Gas is more flexible than ever, with both high- and low-volume BTU burners becoming standard features. A variety of attractive and easy-to-clean grate options are also commonly available. If you often use a wok or other round-bottomed pan, gas is the better choice. Choose sealed burners, which quickly wipe clean, and electric igniters rather than pilot lights.
Electric coils are the least costly and fastest to heat of the electric options. The more coils a burner has, the faster it heats up. Cleaning the coils, however, tends to be time-consuming.
 Electric cooktop photo courtesy of Jenn-Air
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Electric solid-disk (or solid-element) burners have a raised cast-iron surface that is textured so pans will not slip. They are easy to clean but can take a long time to heat up and cool down. Because they don’t glow when hot, opt for a model with warning lights. These burners work best with heavy, flat-bottomed pans.
Smooth-top (or ceramic-glass) electric burners have become increasingly popular due to recent advances: They heat and cool quickly, and newer glass surfaces resist scratching. The burners glow when on, but it’s still a good idea to buy a unit with a warning light that stays on until the burner is cool. One type has heating elements similar to standard heating coils, just under the glass surface.
Halogen bulbs also can be used underneath ceramic glass. They heat up quickly and glow red as soon as they’re switched on. Once they are switched off, warning lights remain lit until the surface cools. They are energy-efficient but expensive.
Induction heat is another electric option for a ceramic-glass cooktop. Induction coils set up an electromagnetic field that reaches about an inch above the cooking surface. If you remove the pan, there’s no live heat source; even at high heat, the surface feels cool to the touch. This option is expensive, and may not be readily available.
 Photo courtesy of Whirlpool Corp.
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Microwaves
Microwaves are especially popular for reheating leftovers, defrosting frozen foods, and cooking quick snacks like popcorn. Newer models come in an array of styles and colors. A microwave can simply be placed on a counter or table, but the more attractive option is to tuck it into a wall or above a cooktop. Many models are designed to be built right into the cabinetry. Standard-size models offer 1.5 cubic feet of cooking space and 1,000 watts of power, but larger and smaller models are available.
Older microwaves used so much power, they were required to have their own electrical circuit. Newer models do not use nearly as much power, but some local electrical codes still require that they be placed on a dedicated circuit. For features to look for in a microwave, CLICK HERE.
Cooktop ventilation
Properly installed, a range hood or downdraft ventilator will remove odors, smoke, and heat from the kitchen. Only large-capacity commercial-style units will remove significant amounts of grease.
A ventilator will do little more than make noise if its blower is not powerful enough or the ductwork is inefficient. A cabinet-mounted range hood should pull 50 to 70 cubic feet per minute (CFM) for every square foot it covers. For example, a hood that is 36 inches by 24 inches covers 6 square feet; it should therefore be rated at 300 to 420 CFM. A freestanding hood should be rated at 100 CFM times the hood’s square footage.
A ventilator is only as good as the duct to which it connects. If a duct is overlong, if it is made of ribbed rather than smooth ducting material, or if it takes more than a few turns, expect its drawing power to be compromised.
If running ductwork is difficult, consider installing a ductless hood. This draws air through a filter and sends it back into the kitchen. While not as efficient, it will lessen smoke and odors, which may be all you need.
To do its job properly, a range hood should cover the entire cooktop area plus at least 3 inches on either side. It should be positioned 24 to 30 inches above the cooktop—close enough to suck out smoke, steam, and odors but not so close as to interfere with the cooking process. Most range hoods are about 6 inches tall and have a funnel-shaped interior to feed fumes up to the filter and blower. Com-mercial units may locate the blower at the point where the duct exits the wall, making them much quieter than other units on the market.
A standard cabinet-mounted range hood is attached to the underside of the cabinet above the surface of the range. Most feature a light as well as the fan. If there is no cabinet above the range to hide the ductwork, consider installing a unit that’s designed to be fully exposed. These tend to be large, relatively expensive—and a focal point of the kitchen.
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