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Carpet diem! That's tweaked-Latin for "carpet day," a day in the life of a home remodeling project that is well worth seizing. Few remodeling milestones are as fun or gratifying as the day wall-to-wall carpeting is rolled out and stretched into place. Within a few hours, a bedroom awakens with color and style, a living room radiates warmth and luxury or a family room grows quiet, cozy and comfortable.
According to The Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI), more than 6 out of 10 American homeowners prefer wall-to-wall carpet for those kinds of family spaces. To meet that level of demand, over one billion yards of carpet will be produced this year, enough to run a 12-foot-wide swath around the Earth's equator. Six times.
Why the popularity? Carpet's benefits are obvious: it is comfortable, quiet, warm, relatively affordable and quick to install, available in thousands of colors and styles, and it can unify a home's interior.
Understanding Carpet Types
In the industry, wall-to-wall carpet is known as "broadloom carpet." Carpets and rugs over 6-feet by 9-feet qualify as broadloom, a reference to the looms once used to manufacture wider-than-normal rugs. Today, most broadloom carpet is sold in 12-foot widths.
To understand how carpets differ, let's focus on how they are made. More than 90% of today's carpet is tufted by machines that are like huge sewing machines. Fitted with several hundred needles, these machines operate at extremely high speeds to stitch rows of face yarn tufts to a synthetic fabric, called the "primary backing."
During tufting, a mechanical "looper" catches the yarn to create loops, resulting in a "loop-pile" carpet. To make a "cut-pile" carpet, blades shear off the loops, leaving yarn ends standing up straight, like a grass lawn. A "cut-and-loop" carpet has a combination of both intact and cut loops.
Unless yarns are pre-colored, they're dyed, then the primary backing is coated with latex adhesive and reinforced with a secondary backing, normally made of polypropylene. Some carpets, notably commercial varieties, may have a resilient cushion attached to the polypropylene backing.
Broadloom carpet is produced by other methods, too. A small percentage, less than 3%, are made on a loom that weaves face and backing yarns together. Although woven carpets have no actual backing fabric, a coating of latex is applied to the underside. Some commercial carpet tiles or modules (normally 18 by 18 inches) are made through a fusion-bonding process, where yarn fibers are injected into an adhesive-coated backing.
More about Loops and Cuts
A carpet's basic qualities depend on its construction: whether the pile is cut, looped or both cut and looped.
Cut pile carpets have a luxurious look and feel, clearly one of the reasons they represent 60% of carpets sold. Within the cut-pile family are the highly popular "saxonies." A saxony has a level surface of cut pile; yarns have varying twists. According to George Davies, Public Relations Manager of Shaw Industries, "there are two main looks in the saxony: traditional, called a 'straight set saxony' because the yarn isn't crimped, and the 'textured saxony,' which has crimped yarns and, as a result, a little more texture."
"Freize" ("fre-zay") carpet is a somewhat rare, rugged, nubby style with tightly twisted yarns. Davies points out that, in recent years, the term has been adopted by textured saxonies.
Another type of cut-pile carpet is the "velvet," with short, very tight pile. A velvet carpet is smooth, level and uniform with a formal look. When you walk on it, footprints tend to show (the more textured a surface, the less it shows footprints).
A cut-pile carpet's "hand"--the look, texture and feel--is a result of the fibers chosen for the yarn and the yarn's gauge ("denier") and twist. These elements critical to performance. The more tightly twisted the yarn, the better the performance, as a rule, because the yarn retains its shape over time. Most cut-pile yarns are heat-set to hold their shape (the same way a hair permanent heat-sets a hairstyle).
Loop pile carpets tend to be more durable than cut-loops because yarn tips are not exposed. With these, yarn wears on the sides, not the ends, and the twist is automatically maintained.
A berber has complete loops, resulting in a nubby texture. Most loop piles are now called berbers, a term that originated with the rugs made by the nomadic Berber tribes of Africa. For a particularly smooth surface, often preferred in commercial installations, you can get a "low-level loop." For striking patterns or a sculptured look, you can buy a "multi-level loop."
Cut-and-loop pile, with a combination of complete and cut loops, offers a variety of looks and patterns. Conventional types, sometimes called "sculptured" carpets, offer bold patterns and colors. More subtle versions, called "traceries" or "carved saxonies" merely suggest a pattern.
Face Yarn Fibers
The fibers used for a carpet's face yarn dramatically affect its look and performance. Although some face yarns employ wool, approximately 97% of contemporary carpets utilize only synthetic fibers. Some yarns blend fibers: for example, acrylic may be blended with wool.
The list of synthetic fibers can be confusing because manufacturers often tag them with proprietary trade names such as Trevira(r) or Anso(r). To simplify, just recognize that all synthetics fall into four generic categories: nylon, olefin, acrylic and polyester. The fiber content are listed on a carpet's specification sheet.
Synthetic fibers used to look...well, synthetic. But these materials have improved by leaps and bounds since their advent more than 50 years ago. First, the shape of nylon fibers was altered to reduce unwanted sheen; then, anti-static fibers were added to cut-down on buildup of static electricity. In recent years, chemicals such as Scotchgard(r) Stain Release have been added to resist soil and stains and some fibers have been given a built-in molecular barrier that resists stains and soil (DuPont's Stainmaster(r) was the first of these processes). Such treatments allow spills to remain on the surface a little longer before a stain occurs, minimizing the possibility of staining.
Here is a look at the carpet fibers used today:
Nylon. Two-thirds of the today's carpet fibers are nylon, a material that offers excellent durability and is wear-, soil- and mildew-resistant. Nylon fibers are resilient, survive the crushing weight of furniture and hold up well in heavily trafficked areas. Nylon is available in brilliant colors and solution-dyed varieties are colorfast. Nylon carpets tend to cost from about $8 to $25 per square yard. At rock-bottom, they run as low as $5; at the high end you can pay $70 per square yard or more.
Olefin. Also known as polypropylene, olefin fibers represent about 30% of the carpet market. Although olefin began as an outdoor carpet fiber, thanks to its resistance to moisture and mildew, new advances in its look and feel have made olefin popular for the entire house. It is easy to clean, strong and resistant to stains, wear and static electricity. These fibers are used primarily in multi-level loops, such as berbers, and in low-profile commercial cut piles. Color is added before the material is turned into fiber, making olefin colorfast. Some carpet tiles made of olefin are felt-like in texture; for these, polypropylene fibers are needle-punched into a mesh core. Olefin carpet is comparable in price to nylon; although the fiber is less expensive than nylon, more manufacturing processes are involved in making olefin berbers and loops.
Polyester. If you like a luxurious, soft, thick cut pile, polyester may be your best bet. Polyester fibers, known for their soft "hand," have plenty of body, resist wear and offer strong color and luster retention. Unfortunately, they are not as durable as nylon and olefin. Currently, many polyester carpets are made from recycled PET (polyester) from plastic soda bottles and containers. Polyester carpets run about $1 less per square yard than comparable nylon products.
Acrylic. Although you won't likely find a 100% acrylic carpet, these fibers are blended with other fibers such as wool because they approximate the look and feel of natural wool but are less expensive. Acrylic fibers are resistant to moisture, mildew and fading in direct sunlight.
Wool. The most luxurious fiber is natural wool. It is soft, durable, offers generous bulk and comes in many colors. From an ecological viewpoint, it is particularly responsible choice because it comes from a sustainable resource. Unfortunately, wool is also considerably more expensive than synthetics. For wool, you're likely to pay from $30 to $100 per square yard--or more.
Quality and Performance
Quality's true measure is performance, a product of the carpet's fibers, construction and density. Face weight, measured in ounces per square yard of carpet, is the amount of face yarn fiber. Generally speaking, the more yarn the better in a given height of pile--a 50-ounce nylon saxony is likely to be better than a 40-ounce nylon saxony if both have a 1/2-inch pile and the same properties. But quantity isn't always quality, therefore face weight isn't really the best measure: density is.
Density addresses the size of the yarn and the number of tufts in each square yard of carpet. The more tufts, the denser and more durable the carpet. A dense carpet is resilient underfoot and resists wear and matting. When shopping, compare samples of carpet by bending them at right angles to see how much backing is revealed.
With a cut-pile carpet, also look closely at the ends of individual yarns. Be sure the fibers are twisted neatly and tightly, and that ends don't flare. Don't be fooled by swatches that fluff-out on the sample rack; tightly-twisted, heat-set yarns will fare far better over time. Also be sure to study and compare warranties of carpets you're considering.
Cushion
Most residential carpet is installed over a separate cushion that makes the carpet softer and more resilient underfoot, reduces noise, provides a little thermal insulation and prolongs carpet life. Cushion may be made from any of several materials, including various types of natural and synthetic fibers and urethane. Density--not thickness--is most important. A carpet that is too thick over-stresses carpet backing and is too soft underfoot.
The Carpet and Rug Institute recommends a maximum thickness of 7/16-inch for residential carpet. If the carpet has a lower pile height, such as a berber or a commercial-like cut pile, the cushion should be even thinner--3/8-inch or less. But it should be firm and resilient. FHA minimums are 6-pound cushion under standard residential cut pile and 8-pound cushion under a thinner berber or low pile. Expect to pay about $2.50 per yard for quality cushion.
Ask your carpet retailer for a Class 1 cushion for moderate traffic areas and a Class 2 cushion where there will be heavy traffic, such as stairs, hallways and family rooms.
Making A Choice
Although 25 companies produce 94% of U.S. carpeting, when shopping for new carpet, you will discover hundreds of different brands and thousands of colors and textures. With that incredible selection, how do you choose the right one?
Do your homework. First consider the amount of traffic the room will take. You can use less durable carpeting where foot traffic will be light, but don't skimp where traffic will be heavy. In family rooms, dining areas, hallways and a rooms that connect directly to an entrance, be sure to choose a durable, dense cut pile, a tight level berber or cut-and-loop carpet with built-in stain resistance. Where traffic is light, you can opt for deep pile, lush saxony or whatever your heart desires. If you're going to cut corners on cost, opt for lesser-grade carpet in low-traffic areas such as bedrooms, not in high-activity areas.
Set up a budget, then estimate the amount of carpet you'll need. For each room you intend to carpet, multiply the length times the width and calculate square footage. Divide the product by 9 to get square yardage (the industry is currently moving toward a square-footage measure, but isn't there quite yet). Add 10% for room irregularities.
Then begin your search. Visit carpet dealers and showrooms until you've found a helpful, reputable dealer and swatches that please you. Once you've made a selection, request a complete quote, with carpet, including high-quality, dense cushion and installation priced separately--installation and cushion combined will probably run about $5 to $6 per square yard. Ask whether there would be an additional charge for moving furniture or removing and disposing of your old carpet and pad (doing this yourself is usually more hassle than it's worth). The written quote should include all pertinent carpet specifications: fiber, face pile weight, warranty and so forth. When evaluating price, be sure to consider long-term value--a superior carpet that won't require replacement in a few years is your best buy.
Don't be afraid to attempt negotiating the price a bit--sometimes the cushion isn't the only padding in a carpet quote. Take samples home and look at them in the rooms, using both daylight and, at night, artificial lighting. Before ordering, have the retailer or installer make final site measurements. Be sure they intend to minimize seams, which should be located where incident light won't highlight them and where traffic runs along, rather than across, them. Then, if necessary, revise the required amounts of material and adjust the price accordingly.
During and immediately following installation, it's a good idea to ventilate the house, particularly if adhesives were used (be sure to look for the CRI indoor air quality label that indicates that the carpet you've chosen has been tested and meets the Carpet and Rug Institute's criteria for low emissions).
Check the quality of installation. Be sure that the carpet is stretched tightly in place and that seams are virtually invisible. Where two or more pieces of carpet intersect, the pile should run the same direction. Detail work at thresholds, walls and stairs should be handled precisely. By combining a quality carpet with careful installation, your new floor coverings should serve beautifully for years to come. Carpet diem!
--Don Vandervort
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