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As the cost of buying, building and remodeling houses continues to skyrocket, architects, home builders and homeowners are seeking strategies to get more from less space. In the world of home building, afterall, space is money. Building a new home or adding onto an existing one costs from about $60 to $120 per square foot. Add the costs of heating, cooling and maintaining that space and it's easy to see that every inch counts.
One home product that can help maximize space is the pocket door. Rather than swinging like a hinged door, a pocket door slides into a hollow cavity or "pocket" in the wall. It is actually a conventional door mounted on rollers that glide along an overhead track. When this type of door is used, the architect or home builder can eliminate from the floorplan the space normally required for the door's swing, which can total 10 square feet or more.
Where They're Used
A pocket door doesn't just save space--it can solve problems, particularly in tight spots. For example, it might be used in a small half-bath that simply doesn't have space for an in-swinging door and where an out-swinging door would be awkward. There, it could circumvent building an unnecessarily large bathroom or stealing space from an adjacent closet or similar area that needs the space more.
Another typical spot for a pocket door is where there is space for a regular door to swing but where it would be in the way when open. This situation is common in bathrooms, closets and laundry rooms. Almost anywhere an open door becomes an obstacle, a pocket door makes sense.
For a large, double-wide doorway between two rooms--a dining room and living room, for example--a pair of pocket doors can be a very elegant, practical addition. (Pocket doors have been used in this type of setting since the turn of the century.) When open, as such doors usually are, pocket doors don't clutter or obstruct the area around the doorway.
A Closer Look
Today's pocket door hardware is far more advanced than that used on older doors. Though many older types that ride on steel rollers are noisy, balky or jump the tracks, today's systems have smooth, quiet axle-mounted, Nylon rollers--or deluxe ball-bearing rollers-- and metal tracks designed for smooth, trouble-free operation.
Nearly any type of door--flush, panel, louvered, glazed--may be mounted on pocket door hardware as long as the hardware is rated to handle its size and weight. Most hardware is designed for 1 3/8-inch thick hollow-core doors weighing up to about 75 pounds but you can buy heavy-duty hardware that will support 1 3/4-inch thick solid-hardwood doors weighing up to 175 pounds. A single manufacturer may offer several options; for example, Cox Hardware makes different roller/track combinations for a variety of door sizes and weights.
Pocket door systems are offered either as kits or as pre-assembled units. The pre-assembled types, sold through lumberyards and home-improvement centers, include a jamb, hanger track and pre-made cage that, when finished, becomes the pocket. The cage is framed with lightweight lumber, yielding a weaker wall than a conventional 2 by 4-framed wall. The installer just fits the unit into a pre-framed rough opening, fastens it in place, applies the wall surface and finishes the opening with casing trim. Last, the door is hung from the track.
The kit type is only slightly more involved to install but most are stronger because they utilize steel reinforced, split studs. Because kits are knocked-down into flat packages, they're easier than pre-assembled types to transport and handle.
For example, one of the larger manufacturers, Johnson Hardware, makes a cut-to-length universal frame header, fully steel-reinforced split jamb and stud uprights, and removable track hardware. The kit is designed for very fast installation into a pre-framed rough opening. Complete instructions make this a manageable job for do-it-yourselfers. Standard sizes are for doors up to 3 feet wide and 6'8" tall but systems may be special-ordered for larger doors.
What are the Drawbacks?
A pocket door can be a little noisier and more time consuming to use than a hinged door. And there are a few locations where one can't be installed. Plumbing, electrical and other mechanical equipment must be routed around a pocket door's location--there is no room in the pocket for such equipment. And because the pocket's structure is weaker than a conventional wall, it shouldn't be used as the structural support for cabinets.
Pocket doors are meant for new construction--for installation during house building or remodeling when walls are opened up. A door's rough opening must be wide enough for both door and pocket. A large header spans between the wall studs at both extremes of the opening. Installation is usually a little more costly than hanging a conventional door.
Doing It Right
Because a pocket door is installed inside a wall, you should make every effort to avoid problems that could occur some time down the line. Buy quality hardware that matches the weight and size requirements of the door. Rollers should be the type that won't jump the track; the type that can be released from the door with a flip of a small lever are worth considering. Also look for a track that can be removed without tearing out the walls.
Hire a qualified installer or, if you do the work yourself, be sure the header is level and side jambs are plumb. Allow a 3/16-inch clearance between jambs and door so that, if the door warps slightly over time, it won't bind in the jambs. And last but not least, take care in painting both the door and jambs to avoid paint buildup that could cause the door to stick.
Repairs to Pocket Doors
If you have an existing pocket door that isn't working properly, here are some things you can do:
Pocket door is off track
To repair a pocket door, you have to first remove it. To do this:
1) Use a utility knife to break the paint seal along the stop moldings on each doorjamb, then carefully pry off the moldings with an old chisel or 5-in-1 tool and flat bar.
2) Position the door so that it's centered in the doorway, then tilt it toward the room and lift the roller out of the overhead track.
3) Inspect the rollers to see if they're broken, worn, or otherwise fouled. If one or both are, repair or replace both of them (take one to the hardware store to find replacements that match).
Damaged pocket door track
Repairing the track can be trickier, because it's located inside the pocket. If possible, slide your arm into the pocket and make sure the track is screwed soundly in place. If it isn't, do your best to tighten screws.
A hopeless track will have to be replaced. This involves removing enough of wall covering up near the track to let you access the old track so you can remove it and install a new one. Unless you're accomplished at home call a professional for this.
Sliding or pocket door rolls poorly
When a sliding door doesn't work right, the problem is often that the rollers have come off the track. Check to be sure they're fitted into the track properly. If you see that a roller is broken or has come loose from the door, you'll need to repair or replace it. To repair a sliding door, you have to first remove it.
To do this:
1) Tilt the door toward the room and lift the roller mechanism out of the overhead track.
 2) Inspect the rollers to see if they're broken or have come loose. If the problem is just a loose roller, tighten or replace the loose screws. You'll have to replace a broken roller (take it to the hardware store to find a matching replacement).
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